Kailash Mansarovar: The mystic journey to Self Awareness (part 2 )

In Part 1 , I covered our journey from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and then Simikot,  In this , I shall cover our forward journey to  Kailash Mansarovar.

Part 1 Link

Simikot – Early morning we woke up and got ready for forward journey. Our guide had asked us to wait at the hotel itself. Around 10 am, we were told to come to the airport as Helicopter services had started. The baggage weight was now limited to 7 kgs per person, so we left one baggage at the hotel itself.

Now the 12 member group was further divided into 5 members, as each Helicopter could carry 5 persons only.  The ride to Hilsa was of 16 minutes. The Helicopter was very  small, with single pilot and single engine. It hardly used to halt for 3-4 minutes, for the coming passengers to get down and next set of passengers to get in.  I was reminded of Mumbai’s shared Auto service at peak office hours. 😉

Hilsa

The Helicopter ride to Hilsa was one of the best part of the journey. You feel like a daredevil when you look down and then up at the sky. The rocky mountains, the snowy peaks, and the greenery, also, we could spot few villages on the edge of the mountains, which left me wondering about thes hardship these villages might be facing.

Hilsa, is a small stopover for the Yatris on the Nepal side to cross over China Tibet border. Hardly any local habitats could be seen. There were hotels, mostly of make shift kind. Here we were given accommodation in  ‘Mansarovar’ hotel, which I think was the centre for Yatris  as the food arrangement for all Yatris, even those staying in other hotels was made in this hotel only.

On reaching Hilsa, first we had our lunch and then moved into our rooms. Depending on the room size, people were accommodated. Half of our group was allotted rooms in a nearby hotel.

Hilsa is a very beautiful place, it was in midst of barren dried up mountains. The changing shadows on the mountains, the crystal blue sky, and a flowing river through the mountains, mesmerized everyone. Across the river was Chinese (Tibet) Emigration Centre. In the night, stars appeared of almost football size. I believe, Hilsa must be a paradise for Stargazers.

By evening, most of our people had arrived, but one  of the group which were held up at Nepalgunj could not reach Simikot as for bad weather they were diverted to another location Surkhet.

Our passports had arrived and were given to us. As we were having group VISA, we have to wait till all our members arrive. I found one group from another tour operator held up at Hilsa for two days for the same reason.

Unpredictability about the journey was sinking in all of us, we feared we could also get stuck up for days at Hilsa, as some of our members were still in Surkhet.

We were asked to report to Chinese Emigration centre by 3:00 pm. To our luck our people who were held up at Surkhet arrived in the morning. After lunch, our bags were loaded on a Jeep and were taken on to other side of the river that is the Tibet (China) side. We crossed the river over a small iron bridge, which was scary as the bridge was shaking a lot. On reaching the other side, found buses waiting for us which took us to the Chinese Emigration centre.

The Chinese Emigration centre was quite big but to our surprise it was quite empty. What I understood that the centre was meant for Mansarovar Yatris only. The Chinese staff would come as per the appointment time of the Yatris.

We were asked to queue up outside the centre with our bags. This was not a scenario of everyone’s liking.  The emigration officials went through each and every bag, manually checked photographs in each and every mobile and camera. Our guide had strictly instructed us to remove any Dalai Lama pictures / articles or anything related to Tibet, even any Indian newspaper. If any one member of the group is found with the picture, then the  whole group will be stopped from entering. For this reason, most of us had left our mobile at Hilsa only for it was very difficult to scan through each picture, especially WhatsApp downloaded pics.

After our bags were checked, we were asked to go inside the centre and queue up for Emigration, where one by one our biometrics were taken. It took time as few more groups were there. Our group was given name 47 by our guide, for the number of members in the group 😉

Emigration centre at Hilsa was only meant for passport checking, the Custom clearance was at Taklakot. So after visa check-in, we all boarded the bus to Taklakot which was around 1.5 hrs drive. The roads to Taklakot were very good, and the drive was very comfortable.

At Taklakot, again we had to wait long for Chinese staff to arrive. Once they came in then within minutes, our bags were put in scanner and one by one we went through the clearance.

After customs clearance, we checked-into a hotel ‘Himalaya’. The hotel was very big, with lifts and big rooms. We were served Indian food at ‘Himalaya’, which was awesome. But as we were going high up on the altitude, our eating capacity was reducing 😉  Taklakot is at height of 13205 Feet.

At Taklakot, many had started feeling sick, stomach upset, and few complained of low oxygen, breathing issues.

Next morning we decided to go around the town. Though the Taklakot town appeared to have big and well-designed buildings but it was very thinly populated, hardly we could found any Tibetans, mostly Chinese officials were visible on the road. In the market we could find many essential shops, fruits and vegetable market and one Nepali market selling Indian goods.

In the afternoon, we all boarded our bus, for our journey to Mansarovar lake. I must say, the roads throughout were excellent, wide and well maintained.

Both sides of the road, the view was enthralling, a lot of snowy peaks  were visible and then after some time, we could see Lord’s abode, divine Mount Kailash. Our excitement grew as we came closer to it.

After sometime, we stopped near an immense blue lake. The lake is known as ‘Rakshas Taal’ in Hindu mythology. It is believed that every day, King Ravana used to come from Lanka, and take bath in this lake for he was forbidden to enter Mansarovar lake. After bath, he used to offers prayers and meditation to Lord Shiva.

From ‘Rakshas Taal’, one can see Mount Kailash very clearly. The beauty of the lake took my breath away for its BLUE colour, and there were so many patterns formed on the water. It seems the lake had no vegetation and no fishes, animals or birds. In contrast, Mansarovar lake which was 40 minutes away had a bit of vegetation and ducks, and seagulls too.

After offering our prayers to Divine Kailash from the lake, we then proceeded towards Mansarovar which took around 40 minutes or so.

The excitement to finally see the Mansarovar was very high. We all rushed to touch the water as soon the bus stopped. But as I reached close by, I was little disappointed as the stretch of the lake where we were allowed to go was not so clean. The water was shallow and muddy. But the view of Kailash from there and surrounding snow clad mountains  from the lake took our breath away. It just makes you feel, this is it, this is it!

We quickly settled down, our stay was in small Dharamshala which had with makeshift type rooms. In one room almost 6-7 were accommodated. But the beauty of the stay was that it was just a few steps away from the lake.

After lunch, we all went to take bath in the lake. Our Sherpa informed us that this year onwards, Chinese authorities are not allowing any bathing in the lake. The monitoring was done by drone, and the fine was around INR 5000. So, the Sherpa brought the Mansarovar water in a bucket, and one by one he poured water  over us. I think that was really funny, but seeing the condition of lake, especially the stretch where we had stayed, I think one cannot challenge the Chinese decision.

But when I thought more about the issue, then I realized, the main issue was about toilets. There were no toilet facilities. It was all in open air, and one could feel the stink in the air. I am not aware if there were any other living arrangements apart from where we stayed. I heard some of the Indian tour operators put up their own tents etc, with make shift toilets.

Anyway in this trip, I realized importance of having toilets, and how much we have strayed away from nature. Apart from toilets, one more learning for me was to how to survive in minimum. I completed the journey in two pair of clothes, taken bath only for 3-4 days, struggled for toilet facilities, and no mirror to look at myself. For me, the journey was more to teach ‘Lessons of Life’ which we had forgotten as we have got into more and more modernized life style.

After bath, we got into bus for a parikrama ( circumambulation) around Mansarovar which is about 90 kms. Mansarovar is at height of 15,060 feet. While parikrama, we could see the lake in its pristine form, for the rest of the stretch is restricted for any human activities.

I pondered for a while, if this was in India, then how this place would have looked like?  Our pilgrimage places have become more commercial. A real thought to ponder upon!

The bus stopped at one point where we could fill water to carry back to India. We sat there for some time, recited Shiv Mantras, bhajans and Guruji asked us to give ‘Tarpan’ to our forefathers.

Till now, the weather was very sunny, and hot, even we had removed our jackets. But on reaching back to our rooms, suddenly the sky turned very cloudy. The temperature dropped, almost chilling cold, forcing us to wear sweater and jacket. Throughout the journey from Simikot to Mansarovar, the weather behaviour was unpredictable, sometimes very hot and suddenly chilling cold.

Our journey till now was going more as per what we had expected. But we were unaware of the wonder of the nature which was in store. As it was very cloudy and chilling cold, most of us were inside the room. Suddenly the sky turned colourful, we all rushed out, and saw double rainbows formed, from one end of the lake to another. The colours of the rainbows were very clear and intense. Colour of the lake too had changed, the colour of surroundings had changed, and Kailash colour changed into deep blue, the sky in the background turned light blue. Few thin black clouds hovered around the Kailash, and it appeared that Kailash had taken the avatar of ‘Neelkanth’. What we saw was unbelievable.

The Sherpa told us, that in his tenure, for the first time he had seen the twin rainbows, and he believed, it was all because of our Guruji’s arrival. I truly believed him. Nature has its own way to show its delight, on the arrival of a spiritually evolved person. It is beyond human capacity to understand nature and it’s dynamics.

A journey is meaningful if it has a purpose, or our Kailash trip would have become like any another place to visit. Our whole Yatra was made special, because of our Guruji’s presence all along.  For his presence, we could derive maximum of ‘spiritualism and divinity’ out of our journey. All the disciples including us wanted to stay very close to him, and benefit maximum out of his presence.

I came to know about divine lights (something like shooting stars) which falls on the lake in middle of night. I was very much interested to see it and stayed awake whole night, but to my bad luck, could not see anything for the dense clouds.

At night, one of group member KK faced severe breathing issue, for the oxygen level in his blood had dropped significantly.

We decided to return to Taklakot next day after visiting Yamdwar.  Anyway there was no plan to go for Kailash parikrama.

Next day morning, we had a hawan near the lake. All of us were in a state of bliss, for getting a chance to perform hawan and chant Lord Shiv mantra. If you believe in Shiva, then this is the ultimate Bliss. You are blessed to sit on the bank of Mansarovar, facing Kailash and offer prayers to Lord Shiva. What more you could have asked for?

After hawan, the sick member KK was taken in a car ambulance to Taklakot. We all boarded our bus for Yamdwar, and

Yamdwar means gate of Yama, who is God of death in Hinduism. It is the start point for Kailash parikrama which takes three days and about 42 kms. It is at the height of 15,500 feet. From this point, one can see the south face of the Kailash, while in parikrama one can see the North face too.

Everyone was satisfied and jubilant with the darshan of Kailash from Yamdwar. We did meditation facing Kailash. Guruji asked us to thank our fore fathers, for their blessings, because of which we got darshan of Kailash. I realized at that moment, that if it was not for my fore-fathers hard work and my parents karma, the journey to Kailash would not have been possible. So truly, one must be always thankful to one’s forefathers for one’s achievement.

By noon, we started for Taklakot which took almost 2 hrs. On the way we stopped for some tome at Darchen which is one more stop other than Taklakot where usually Yatris stay.

At Taklakot, we checked into the hotel ‘Himalaya’ again, and were very pleased for the hot bath. Everyone was now exhausted and looked forward to return home. I guess, it happens in every journey, once you achieve what you want to, you feel like returning back to your roots.

We had a good sleep at Taklakot.

Next morning we were informed that at Hilsa and Simikot many Yatris were stuck, hence we have to remain at Taklakot itself till the backlog is cleared. It was very disappointing but we were okay to stay at Taklakot as the accommodation it was much better than Hilsa.

We spent the day roaming in the market, trying out local fruits and buying few Tibetan craft items.

Meanwhile KK health detoriated and he was admitted in a nearby hospital. For faster recovery, Doctor advised him to move to low altitude as soon as possible. We all were worried for him, and informed the guide that anyway we want to crossover to Nepal, for KK to be lifted to Kathmandu or Nepalgunj.

Next day morning, after breakfast, we all left the hotel. First to Custom office and then to Emigration Centre near Hilsa. We all were now very eager to cross over to Nepal. The formalities did not take much time, and we all were in Hilsa soon.

At Hilsa, the Helicopter was ready for KK who along with Guruji and a few members left for Kathmandu.

At Hilsa all hotels were running full as many Yatris were stuck. We came to know that almost 600 people were stuck at Hilsa and 1000 plus at Simikot. Due to bad weather flights were not taking from both locations.

Getting rooms was very difficult as we went to all hotels one by one. Finally we got few rooms in a small hotel away from the main Mansarovar hotel. We got back our mobiles at Hilsa and found that the news of Mansarovar Yatris stuck in Nepal, was covered by most of the Indian national news. We made few calls to the helpline numbers and were ensured help arriving next day. Our guide also assured us that next day, we would be the first one to leave Hilsa.

Hotel Mansarovar, we could see each and every space being occupied. The room where  food used to be served to all Yatris, was also converted into sleeping place, with the beds arranged on floor. We found people looking for bed, checking each and every room. Same was the problem with food though the kitchen was running full day. Getting rice and vegetable was a delight. Some of the Yatris had taken over charge of serving food as the staff were not able to manage the influx. At the back of the mind, everyone understood the gravity of the problem hence everyone co-operated.

In evening, it was very cold. We arranged for a bonfire. We sang bhajans and songs. The evening passed in cheerful mood. But night was tough to pass. The wind blew very strong; almost howling. Whole night, I was scared if the wind blows away the weak roof, or if landslide happens from both sides of the mountains.

Morning we got an update about KK that he was taken to the Kathmandu hospital on arrival. After examination, he was discharged as there was significant improvement.

But here at Hilsa, early morning everyone packed up bags, again the teams were formed of 5 persons each.

Whole day we waited for our turn, we watched the Helicopters landing and taking off. To me, it was just like a movie scene, where we would come running out whenever we see a Helicopter landing, expecting our turn to come but it did not. Most of us had return tickets from Kathmandu but now everyone knew it would be difficult to reach Kathmandu on scheduled date. So most of us got it cancelled or rescheduled.

Around 3:00 pm, our guide informed us that he can send only 5 people to Simikot. The mood dampened as everyone was very eager to return. Already eleven days of our trip had passed. But we had no option but to go by guide. So 5 people left for Simikot and rest of us returned to the hotel.

We were all hopeful that next morning we would be able to leave Hilsa but again night was difficult to pass. For the first time. I had breathing issue, and whole night stayed awake. The toll of journey was getting on me, I was missing my son a lot and was little sad.

I think, the journey stress was getting on all of us. I felt better faculties should have been at Hilsa. Everyone is at the mercy of few guides. The journey not only demands physical fitness but equal mental fitness too.

Next morning our group was prioritized and by afternoon, all of us had reached Simikot. We were lucky to get the same hotel back though all hotels were jam packed. 12-15 of us were put up in the same room. We all were realizing the seriousness of the situation as each corner of the hotel, we could see a bed. Half of our group was put up in an another hotel.

Our guide at Simikot, was not sure if next day, we would be able to fly to Nepalgunj as a huge backlog of Yatris were awaiting.

Early morning we waited at the airport for our flight. There was total chaos at the Simikot airport, as everyone had gathered near the gate. We were lucky to get the flight and happy that the last hurdle was crossed, but soon came to know that it was not the last one 😉 as the flight was to Surkhet, and not to Nepalgunj.

Why Surkhet? Our guide explained that Simikot to Nepalgunj takes 1.5 hours, while Simikot to Surkhet takes 30 minutes. As small aircrafts were limited, to clear up the jam at Simikot, Yatris were brought to Surkhet, and from Surkhet to Nepalgunj by bus.

At Nepalgunj, many of the group members decided to reach India by Lucknow route as they had cancelled return tickets from Kathmandu to New Delhi. Our tour operator was kind enough to arrange a bus for us, by which all came to Lucknow, from there they proceeded to their homes.

My journey to Divine Kailash Mansarovar was not only of 13 days, but a trip to know one self, and one’s inner strength, and return as a matured soul. The journey leads one to self awakening.